So in the last waistcoat post I mentioned that it had originally been scheduled to blog alongside the matching trousers, but this had not happened because the trousers in question had also not happened.
The trousers are another set of Sewaholic Thurlows, minus the belt loops and back pockets as I don’t have any use for either on work trousers. I started cutting them first – before Christmas – made the waistcoat over New Year, went back to the trousers in early January and promptly made a spectacular pig’s ear of the waistband. (This is, as you will see, a continuing theme.)
In other circumstances this would have been the time to curse, unpick, recut and carry on. But in this case, having already made the waistcoat, recutting was not on the table (… as it were) because I was out of the fabric. And it had been a one-off in-person purchase from a stall I couldn’t actually remember the name of, so no getting/ordering more …
It was at this point that I dumped the trousers unceremoniously in the Corner of Ignominious Incompletion and started making a quilt instead. (No, I haven’t finished the Quilt I Have Been Sort Of Making For A Year either). Quilt blocks are bitsy and finicky but at least (in this case) they’re all straight lines.
On Monday night, with another half-done project at a point where I could put it to one side and not have it fall apart, I fished the trousers out of the pile again and surveyed the damage. It wasn’t actually as bad as I’d thought: once I’d unpicked the waistband from the trouser body, I decided I could probably save the self fabric at the cost of sacrificing the lining – the edges were fraying horribly and I didn’t want to risk pulling them further out of shape by ripping the seam, so cut the lining away instead. Despite my best efforts I ended up losing a chunk off one end.
That done, I unpicked the back waistband seam, cut new waistband lining (from the grey wool I used for the contrast of the waistcoat – warm and, crucially, stable) and a new piece of interfacing, and reassembled the waistband.
This is the new back seam, from the outside:
You can see that the back waistband seam is off from the CB seam by a good inch. That’s because of the chunk that tore off – the left waistband piece is that much shorter than the right. I only just had enough to go round.
You can also see the general horrible lumpiness around the back seam. It sits flat to the small of my back, just about, but it took a lot of steaming to get it that way.
Happily, other than that back waistband, the rest of the trousers turned out immaculately. The zip went in like a dream and the fly front came out beautifully:
The single enormous button is not as green as it looks in the photos – it’s grey with a slight greenish tinge.
Everything lies nice and flat at the front, and I feel like I got the tricky fly-seam-into-CF-seam bit right for the first time.
And here’s the pocket lining – originally I was going to cut the waistband lining from the same fabric, but its thinness and general misbehaviour made me decide to cut attempt 2 from something more stable.
The Saga of the Waistband does prompt the question of why I didn’t just cut one in a different fabric. Colour, mainly. I didn’t have fabric in stash that would co-ordinate, and as opportunities for contrast go, my impression is that the waistband is not a great place to put it, because a widthways stripe at hip height is liable to visually cut you in half. I did consider opening the pockets back up and having contrast pocket facings too, but at that point I couldn’t bring myself to do it.
I am, on balance, happy with the net result. They fit, in exchange for which I am willing to overlook a multitude of sins. The waistband’s entirely fine except for the ~3 inches at CB, and everything else is okay. It goes beautifully with the colour-blocked waistcoat and is a nice neutral-ish bottom half for the many tops I own in the red/pink spectrum.
It’s nice to have work clothes that aren’t essentially in grayscale. It really is.