This post is light on photos because black on black is a pain to photograph and also I forgot.
Something that initially became clear when I surveyed my me-made wardrobe, and which has become even more obvious during Me-Made May, is that I am seriously lacking in a) me-made casualwear, b) me-made trousers and c) the intersection of the two.
Naturally, this couldn’t continue, so when I happened on an interesting-looking trouser pattern I snapped it up.
The pattern is from MyImage, a European sewing magazine that publishes two issues a year (Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter); this one is M1253, view A, from AW12-13 (pdf). You can order back issues of the magazine from their website, but if you only want a single pattern or can’t be having with tracing, you can order them as printed sheets. Most intriguingly, if you want one of the magazine patterns in a size that didn’t come with the magazine, you can order that, too! This is what I did – these rather awesome trousers only went to an EU46 in the magazine version, and my hips require an EU48 minimum.
A word of caution: if you do order a single pattern, you get the printed pattern, and that’s all. If you want anything else – suggested yardage, instructions, anything – you have to buy the magazine. In this case, it was pretty obvious how they went together, so I winged it without the instructions.
I found this pattern via FehrTrade – Melissa wrote up her denim-look pair here. I was immediately smitten by the interesting seaming and nifty pleated panel, which to me has a vaguely sci-fi look (cutting the pattern out, I showed a test version of the pleated section to the Elf, whose response was “Venting!”)
Before making it up, I compared the crotch curves to my go-to trouser pattern – the Thurlows – and tweaked the pieces very slightly. I also converted the included straight waistband into a curved one, because with a 3:4 waist:hip ratio straight waistbands just do not work, elastic be damned. I ended up putting two small pleats in either side of CB, needing the waist to be narrower but unsure of how well darts would hold in a knit.
The pattern calls for stretch wovens; I followed Melissa’s example and used a stable knit. This is the same black interlock I used for the body of the Winter Coco – it cuts and sews beautifully and stretches some, but not too much. I sewed it up with a three-step zigzag (which I had somehow not realised my machine had until now, despite owning it for two-and-a-half years) and topstitched all the seams with a twin needle.
For the pleated thigh piece, the pattern has an interestingly shaped section that you cut and then pleat. Given how long and wriggly the piece was, and how much notch-matching it would have involved, I opted to instead cut a rectangle, pleat that and then cut the piece out of it (as I did for the sleeve of the Winter Coco.) I think I ended up with an extra pleat compared to the pattern, but eh.
Melissa mentions in her post that the waist comes up very high. On me, it was impractically high in the front and about the right height in the back, so I hacked a big chunk off the top front before adding the waistband. I also narrowed the ankles a bit.
These would have been a beautifully quick project – pleating the side panels took more time than most of the rest of it – if I hadn’t broken a needle partway through leg #2, spent an inordinate amount of time fishing the broken point out of the bobbin compartment, then discovered I’d lost one of the screws for the needle-plate … ah, well. I did find it eventually.
I like how they’ve come out. They’re not perfect, but they’re very, very comfortable and have been getting a lot of wear