This is the Harlots & Angels Sweeney Waistcoat pattern. H&A are a small indie company specialising in costuming/steampunk who sell their paper patterns through (among others) Fabrication, a Leeds indie maker shop. This is the first of their patterns I’ve used; the drafting seems good; I can’t speak to the quality of the instructions as I didn’t really refer to them.
I cut the second-largest size, curved the CB seam in at the small of the back, took 1″ off the shoulder and 1/2″ out of the armscye at the side seam. I omitted the pockets and adjustable back. Everything went together nicely and I love the way that the lapels fall – there’s no roll line or extra reinforcement in there; they fold that way all by themselves.
Piping is home-made from black cotton twill and string. Buttons are plastic with a dark mother-of-pearl effect and came from the Knitting and Stitching Show 2015 (… I think.)
The fabric is a mystery grey-blue synthetic from the Dress Jacquard box at Abakhan in Mostyn. When I first picked it up, I thought the fabric was a border design but it’s actually not: there’s a plain section giving way to scattered motifs and then a wide patterned section, but the repeat is perpendicular to the grain rather than along it. I cut the body on the cross grain to get the pattern going in the right direction and placed it so it’s patterned at the left side seam, with the motifs petering out around the front and back until it’s plain at the right side seam. I love how it came out.
In-game photo by Tom Garnett. TooA runs into the night, and the sections after sunset are conducted entirely by lamplight.